The mother of all spiders

Louise Bourgeois died yesterday. Perhaps at that very moment I was in the garden of the Leeum museum in Seoul being humbled by her sculpture, Maman. I had previously run into Maman at the Tate about a decade ago. She's not someone you easily forget. At first all you notice is the immense, menacing, and tremendously unsettling spider. Then you notice that there's a smaller spider nearby, perhaps a child. And then, much later, you notice that the larger spider has a sac at her belly, filled with eggs. She's a mother (hence her name, which is french for the same). But this is not your canonical nurturing, soothing, swaddling mother figure. The Leeum museum is outstanding: an oasis in the heart of Seoul. The museum is split into 3 buildings, each distinct and marvelous (both architecturally, and for their contents). One wing consists entirely of ancient art, with a ...