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Ice Fishing For Neutrinos From the Middle of the Galaxy

An intrepid reporter braves Siberia’s frozen Lake Baikal in search of the fundamental particles that could answer some of the deepest questions in physics.

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Excerpted from The Edge of Physics by Anil Ananthaswamy, copyright © 2010. Reprinted by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Co. All rights reserved.

Image: NASA/MODIS | NULL

About 25 million years ago, Earth parted in the southeast corner of Siberia. Since then, countless rivers have converged on the gaping continental rift, creating the vast body of water known as Lake Baikal. Surrounded by mountains, this 400-mile-long inland sea has remained isolated from other lakes and oceans, leading to the evolution of unusual flora and fauna, more than three-quarters of which are found nowhere else on the planet. Russians regard it as their own Galápagos. The lake contains 20 percent of the world’s unfrozen freshwater—or just a little less during the severe Siberian winter when, despite its enormous size and depth, Baikal freezes over.

On one such winter’s day, I found myself on the lake near the town of Listvyanka, ...

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