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Long-Lost Plant Delivers a Jolt to Coffee’s Future

As climate change affects bean cultivation, a wild species from the past may be grounds for hope.

Decades after it faded into obscurity, coffee researchers rediscovered stenophylla in the West African country of Sierra Leone .Credit: Zffoto/Shutterstock

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This story was originally published in our Nov/Dec 2022 issue as "Delivering a Jolt to Coffee’s Future." Click here to subscribe to read more stories like this one.

On a small hill near a busy highway in Sierra Leone, Jeremy Haggar found what might be the future of coffee. Haggar, a coffee researcher at the University of Greenwich in the U.K., was looking at a single small green tree, about waist high, hidden amidst the undergrowth in the West African country.

If the stories were true, the humble plant represented an almost unbelievably fortuitous collection of attributes. Known by scientists as coffea stenophylla, the plant was once cultivated for commercial production, but had disappeared for the better part of the last century. It was said to tolerate temperatures higher than other commercial species, resist droughts and fungal infections, and, amazingly, taste better than almost any coffee on the market today.

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