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The Myth of the Virgin Rainforest

Discover the rich Kelabit Highlands culture, where tradition meets the evolving challenges of modern life and environmental change.

The modest village of Bario in the Kelabit Highlands hosts a school that offers surrounding communities educational opportunities—and brings them into contact with forces that threaten to radically alter their culture.Credit: Samantha Elsie Jones

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The little village of Pa Lungan sits in a grassy clearing, high in the hills of Malaysian Borneo, in a region called the Kelabit Highlands. The people here—a few dozen—belong to the Kelabit tribe, one of more than 50 Indigenous groups living on Asia’s largest island. They have sturdy wooden homes with slat glass windows, metal roofs, kitchen sinks, and TVs. Generators and solar panels power a few lightbulbs, laptops, and mobile phones (typically used to play music and games). Most households have a kitchen garden, an outdoor toilet, a cold-water shower, and a laundry line. A patchwork of coops and fences keeps chickens and buffalo in check. Just beyond these homes and yards lie rice fields fed by mountain waters and hemmed in by trees. It’s a tidy, orderly life in Pa Lungan—and it’s an easy walk to some of the most biologically diverse rainforests on Earth.

The Kelabit, ...

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